the pursuit of sustainability
Promoted as affordable fast fashion, with new releases and drops each week, we as consumers are bombarded with the belief that more is better, and new is the best. Fast fashion is not a new concept. In fact, today I think it's reasonable to suggest that many are aware and understand the ingrained unethical and unsustainable processes that come along with a cheap piece of clothing. Fortunately, many more businesses are pursuing a more sustainable and environmentally friendly approach to fashion these days, understanding and acknowledging that it is not only what consumers are demanding, but expecting.
However, even if fashion labels and designers take a more sustainable approach to their collections, working in an industry that is so inherently polluted by unsustainable and unethical practices and behaviours, how sustainable can fashion truly be?
The reality is that the bulk of the fashion industry is completely driven by economic and social benefits, neglecting environmental long-term effects. The process is flawed, and it's difficult for companies to see the benefits to opting for a more sustainable option, when the cheaper process, that is used by already successful and booming companies, can viably sustain their business short term.
There is also the issue of greenwashing, defined as "the process of conveying a false impression or providing misleading information about how a company's products are more environmentally sound". With sustainability supposedly trending, and companies being pressured for more transparency, it is not uncommon for clothing labels to exaggerate or use loose terms when dealing with the eco-factor of their clothing.
Whilst clothing has complex supply chains, making it difficult to account for all the emissions and energy, it is clear there is a direct correlation between global warming and environmental detriment, and fashion. The fashion industry is accountable for 10% of global carbon emissions, as well as 20% of waste water. This is without taking into consideration, the use of pesticides, poisoning of water and food chains, transportation of garments, and the discarding of clothing into landfill.
Cotton for example, whilst being a natural fabric and biodegradable, is one of the most environmentally damaging crops. It is highly water-intensive, demanding up to 3,000 gallons for a single t-shirt alone. Cotton farming also uses a huge amount of pesticides and chemicals that seeps into various other spheres and ecosystems. Whilst there are alternatives, and of course fabrics that have a lower impact on the environment, the production process of clothing ultimately uses a vast amount of energy, and in nearly all cases, will have an impact on the environment in some way.
The International Wool Textile Association, for instance, reports that wool products are relatively long-lasting and biodegradable, however the sheep needed to grow the fibre emit greenhouse gases. Not to mention, no matter how clothing is made, it consumes oil through transport on a global supply chain.
It is also worthwhile mentioning ethical issues when discussing the sustainability of clothing, as this definitely comes into play. Clothing workers are some of the worst paid in the world, as well as being exposed to exploitive and dangerous conditions. Social responsibility was heightened when the Rana Plaza incident occurred in 2013, but since then, despite building improvements, workers still continue to be subjected to poor pay and working conditions. It's always important to be critical of brands, investigating a little bit deeper into who exactly made the garments, instead of relying and trusting placid terms such as "ethically-produced".
When it comes to the consumer, obviously there are a lot more choices and options available in order to increase the sustainability of clothing. However, a huge amount of clothing still ends up in landfill, significantly contributing to greenhouse gases. The reality is that fabric recycling is almost non-existent, with only a sliver being repurposed or turned into rags. Not to mention, the sheer process of taking care of your clothing, particularly washing it is also water intensive and results in the release of microfibres.
Although the facts and reality of the fashion industry can be disheartening, and to put it lightly, overwhelming, I believe it's important to be realistic and aware of what comes with each item of clothing. Many of us fall into this idea that because we buy from an ethical brand, or supposedly advertised 'sustainable' label, or even purchase second-hand, our clothing is guilt-free. The fact is that it is impossible for fashion to be completely sustainable. In fact, in this day and age, everything comes at a cost.
Many of us would rather feel better about ourselves, or allow ourselves to believe we are fulfilling the expectation of sustainability, instead of facing the overwhelming reality, which in all honesty, can seem too big to handle. However, it is when you understand truth that true action can begin, being aware of the results, and as such more purposeful with your choices.
It is unlikely clothing manufacture and fast fashion is going to slow down anytime soon. Yet, the trend of sustainability continues to gain momentum, spreading the message that all is not as it seems. Whilst the notion of sustainability can be deceiving, with brands falsely advertising their products, and the idea of 'guilt-free' leading consumers into thinking they are in the clear, through awareness of this, consumers can become more proactive and discerning.
So, in the spirit of Fashion Revolution Week, which sadly comes to a close this Sunday, I conclude with the following message. Fashion is one of the most diverse and powerful tools in society, and whilst it can be consumed with beauty, it is also important to look further than the clothes themselves. Be knowledgable, critical and inquisitive in your pursuit of fashion, and especially in your pursuit of sustainability.
O
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